Потом продал "Karpo " c форума ,теперь он пользуется им в Чернигове. Свяжись с ним он тебе больше расскажет ,так как он его разбирал до самого винтика и устранял некоторые проблемы до которых у меня руки не дошли. Вот сейчас тоже ищу мотор сил. Предложили вариант - Джонсон 25 сил, х годов. Вес мотора - 40 кг!!!! Под заказ из Европы.
Почитал эту ветку - не перехотел Джоника Вопрос такой у меня: Сам в технике - полный ноль. Максимум - свечу поменять. И то - после пятикратного прочтения инструкции по замене свечи Денег хотят в районе уев. Но боюсь Если есть ещё столько же для ремонтов, то можно брать, а если нету, то купить местный мотор в идеальном состоянии за те же деньги. Это я о уе. Но боюсь Без серьёзных знаний и хорошо поставленных рук, тебе такая техника противопоказана. Будет хороший денежный пылесос. Есть у меня такой "Донни", заводится и работает, можешь подъехать и посмотреть и стоит он дешевле. Думаю не стоит выбрасывать такие деньги за такие "трупы", это каменный век и куча геморроя. Вот есть познавательная история,перечитайте: Джонсон из Европы х годов может запросто оказаться х годов Сначала фотографию мотора, а потом уж заказывать. Да и человек знакомый или провереный должен везти. Ага, людей платят, а 1 выигрывает. Тут платит не людей,а ОДИН. А вот выигрывает ли ОН? Руслан35 - так вот потому и спросил - на что обращать внимание при покупке такого мотора. Просто беру из опыта покупок машин себе. Первая была Жигуль - соповставляю с Ветерками и т. Вторая - иномарка ти лет. На форумах многие писали - все, только траты будут на ремонты и все. Нашел, ездил, доволен был. Купил и новую себе, из салона. А зачем СТО тогда? Я вот машины только там делаю. И на данном этапе я просто приезжаю, оставляю машину и потом мне звонят и говорят что, сколько и т. Ниже цену не давал никто - раз, варианты намного дороже предлагали - два. За сообщение извиняюсь больше не повторится, А по группе создать не долго но не в обиду сказано посещаемость здесь очень слабая и вести несколько групп я физически не успею. Это не столько много времени требует. А чтобы повысить посещаемость, нужно тут общаться больше инфы выкладывать. Тогда и народу будет, что под черпнуть. Ну и посещаемость вырости. Наоду кстати тут не мало зарегистрировано, но не все же пишут. Форум любителей активного отдыха Всё о рыбалке и охоте, лодках и моторах, путешествиях и сплавах, общение и отчёты. Страница 2 из 6. А ты попробуй заведи. Потом посмотрю, когда ты будешь А вы какую музыку слушаете? Страны в которых мы побывали. Хочу поделиться своим творчеством с другими. Занятия в тренажерном зале.
И, как любая обзорная статья, не учитывает некоторых отличий моделей разных годов выпуска. Более точно Вы можете подобрать свечи для своей конкретной модели на сайте www. История компании насчитывает свыше лет. Сейчас бренд выпускает агрегаты, которые выделяются множеством полезных новшеств, высоким качеством сборки изготовления и небольшим потреблением горючего.
Инструкции к лодочным моторам JOHNSON
Все продукты Johnson оснащаются системой впрыска E-TEK, обеспечивающей компьютерный контроль каждого впрыска. Подобное решение снижает отрицательное воздействие на окружающую среду и положительно сказывается на экономичности мотора. Надежность агрегатов данного бренда и удобство их транспортировки сомнению не подвергаются, а положительные отзывы подтверждают это. Среди продуктовой линейки Johnson сильная модель считается наиболее распространенной. В ней собрано множество передовых технологий. Средства обслуживания водной и наземной техники. Показывать в списке товаров: Блок зажигания Johnson США Аналоги детали. Блок зажигания Johnson 88, 90,США Аналоги детали. Amplifier Assembly США Аналоги детали. Блок зажигания Johnson 4.
Блок зажигания Johnson 70, 75до 84 г, по 2 шт США Аналоги детали. Daphne The Cat Loves Feathers Just Like A Bird! Cats To Be Sent To Prison For Stealing Stuff. Abyssinian American Bobtail American Curl American Shorthair American Wirehair Balinese. Birman Bombay British Shorthair Burmese Burmilla Chartreux. Chinese Li Hua Colorpoint Shorthair Cornish Rex Devon Rex Egyptian Mau European Burmese. Exotic Havana Brown Japanese Bobtail Korat LaPerm Maine Coon Cat. Именно так сделано на генераторах мотоциклов. Соответственно и накопительных катушек нужно две- и так далее. Когда я упомянул мотоциклы я имел ввиду принцип работы их зажигания. То есть схема сама по себе ни чего не решает. Решает всё магнитная система и её конкретные характеристики под конкретные обороты мотора. Именно по этой причине раскрутить до ту самую пятнашку на штатной системе зажигания и не получается. Then when the motor cools down, things are going to be slightly different. What happens then is that in the cold starting mode, the motor does not get enough fuel, you have to choke it, pull more times on the starter rope to get enough fuel into the cylinders for it to fire. One thing you may do in this case is to after you have adjusted it for your trolling speed is to then pull the knob straight forward and off the carburetor idle shaft, reposition the idle knob to position the pointer straight down then push it back on. Then when you go to start it, you twist this knob counterclockwise all the way up about 90 degrees till it bumps. This should give you more fuel to start, then you can reset it to your known trolling position later. Getting into a worse case engine scenario which would require a rebuild, you may have worn piston skirts. Here you can have somewhat good compression but the engine has no vacuum to pull the fuel in. A warm piston expands some and makes a better seal on the skirt. You can usually get it to start by squirting fuel into the right side of the air intake breather to get it to start, after it runs a while the metal may warm up, expand, possibly could be easier to start when then warm.
Compression is related here, but does not relate totally because the rings are designed to seal from the top side of the piston. Compression could be acceptable but still not related as you are comparing vacuum on the carburetor side to piston compression on the head side. The reed valves could produce the exact same situation if they are bad and not seating completely. Another problem could be leaky reed valves at the reed valve base. This could allow some of the intake fuel to be pushed back out on a firing cycle. Or someone installed the intake manifold gaskets in wrong, holding some of the reeds closed, starving the motor and if ran for any length of time could create to a starved dry cylinder resulting in a seized, blown piston. This condition will not allow sufficient vacuum on the intake stroke to pull fuel from and thru the carburetor. This is usually the top seal that is bad. Some mechanics will tell you that it is the bottom crankshaft seal, I say not really as the lower one will not have as much side pressure on it as the top seal being near the rotating flywheel as the top bearing may also be worn. They mentioned that one COLD morning, they were not able to go out to the hunting grounds because of the non-starting motor and they were on a trip a considerable distance from home. A trip of "let your fingers do the walking" thru the phone book took them to a old outboard mechanic that was operating out of his home shop. When they explained the problem, he said "OK I know what it is". When they looked him up, he retrieved a propane torch, heated the spark plugs. After reinstalling them, BINGO, the motor started. His explanation was that on some of these older motors the compression may be lower during the cold weather and that there just is not enough compression to fire the fuel at the plugs with them being that cold. Pull both spark plugs and check the compression.
A good compression reading for a used 9. Now be advised that these rope start motors do not spin the motor over real fast so the compression will be less than if you try it with a electric start motor. There may be about a 15 difference between rope and electric start motor. For a rope start motor, you need to pull the rope as if you were mad at it, not those love pat pulls. You may get a higher reading if instead you use a rope wrapped around the flywheel more purchase on the outer rim and no gear reduction. Use a good screw in type automotive compression tester. You may encounter slightly different readings even when using 2 different testers, even if they are the same make and model. Twist the throttle handle to wide open to open the throttle plate to give it as much a chance as possible to breathe and allow optimum suction. Ground out both the plugs so as to not damage the electronics of the CDI ignition, or leave your spark tester hooked up.
Pull it over aggressively as if you were trying to start it. You may get a difference of opinion here, but 3 pulls seems to be the norm for this test.
Pulling it more than that does not give you a fair evaluation because just because it pumps up higher shows nothing in relationship to the actual compression needed for starting. Do both cylinders with equableness in effort as to speed of your pulling and the length of the pull to assure that you are getting genuine readings. I like to pull it just far enough that I can feel the starter rope bottom out at the end of the stroke, but not enough to overstress the rope. Regular automotive compression tester.
Лодочный мотор Джонсон 15
You will not find a factory recommended compression data from OMC, but they will say it needs to be about equal between the 2 cylinders, this being within about 5 of each other. As for compression testing, I have found that not all testers come up with the same pressure. I have had 3 and the neighbor a different one, there is 15 difference between them. You might just have a low reading one. They checked with their supplier who said just a gauge was not available. My guess is that these are made so cheaply it is not feasible to repair them.
Also what I found was the "valve seat inserts" are made in a different internal color, these colors use a different tension opening spring, car inner tube version is overly strong in comparison so the inserts may need to be matched with the gauge. And since we are usually manually pulling a rope as compared to a electric starter, the pressure reading will probably be different. I have a feeling this is why OMC has not posted a recommended PSI reading, as mechanics would be chasing their tails over a few pounds. I have seen used motors seemingly run quite well at 75 and others that were a new rebuild at I personally would NOT like to see anything under the 85 however for the 9. It would possibly be hard to start, with one plug would more than likely foul out often. However on some of the older motors with a gear reduction rope starter like the earlier 6 and 9. I have seen some that run fairly well with a medium compression, but the rings or at least one is bad, however there will be fouled plugs or excessive smoking problems. The consensus from many boat mechanics is that if you have compression in excess of on this series of used motor, that you have an exceptional motor. What a compression test will tell you is if one cylinder is 90 and the other is 40you can very likely have a blown head gasket and the lower compression cylinder compression is leaking off into the water jacket. Or, if both are at say 70 the gasket is blown between the two cylinders and is equalizing when you take the reading. Compression is not the only test you need to look at, but if taken into consideration with other factors it may well lead you to some conclusions as to the condition of the motor. A compression test will not show is a secondary compression which on a 2 cycle motor the crankcase must alternate under pressure and vacuum. If the crankcase seals or gaskets leak, the crankcase can not hold the pressure or vacuum to operate the reed valves behind the carburetor, the engine will not run well, if at all. This vacuum is also what operates the fuel pump. The most probable is a blown or leaking head gasket. If the gasket is blown between both cylinders it will not start, however that would be the rare situation as the leak usually is between the cylinder and the water jacket, which will allow water into that cylinder. This could also effect the cooling of the motor as this compressed gas could be forced back into the cooling system. Look at the head gasket. Any time you have the head off, check it for straightness of the head using a straightedge. Smear some medium grit valve grinding compound on the glass, place the head on this, move the head around applying downward pressure while doing a figure eight with the head to take off any high spots.
Lapp the head, applying more compound and the figure eights until the texture of the head has the same wear pattern all over the bearing surface. After it has been run enough to warm the block up, check and re-torque the headbolts. Look at the photos below. Here the motor had been totally rebuilt with new rings about 30 hours before. The motor died and since it had an electric starter, was not noticed any real differences except harder starting. Plugs were changed and it ran for a while. This time when it died, the lower plug had the electrode smashed flat against the center electrode. At the time it was thought that possibly the new plug was defective or that it had been dropped, deforming it. The motor was still running with about 4 more hours on it at the time it was taken out of service, but the bottom plug was fouled considerably. Here is the bent spark plug mentioned above. Compression on this motor at the time it was taken out of service was on the top cylinder and on the bottom. Miraculously, the cylinder wall was not scored badly and only a good honing job was required to clean it up. This was cracked by aluminum piston pieces being sucked behind the piston thru the ports, then got poked out as the rod came around at the base of the cylinder. A clean up and wire-feed welding job remedied this problem. However this hole in the block could have been probably been taken care of with a J-B Weld epoxy repair. Here is evidence of the broken piston pieces being imbedded into the head. If your testing shows low compression, then I would do 2 things, before I would get really dejected. First I would pull the head and look for a blown head gasket or evidence of carbon on the top of the piston. If carbon is there, then you may also have it in the ring grooves binding the rings from doing a full expansion contact with the cylinder walls. This could seize the ring to the piston groove and cause it to not seal in the bore effectively, which can contribute to low compression. While the head is off, rotate the flywheel, look at the cylinder walls, are they scored or evidence of rust pitting? One thing to do when taking the head off, would be to mark which coil is the top one this will be an invaluable help later. This means when you reinstall the head IF the powerhead is still on the motor, that you will have to insert these 2 bolts in their respective head holes BEFORE you slide the head in place. The next step would be to remove the bypass cover on the LH side of the motor facing forward. With this cover off, you can see into the side of the powerhead, see the sides of parts of the piston and the rings, which will give you another clue as to what may be wrong. Is there any black carbon on the sides of the piston, which would indicate that the rings are indeed stuck allowing a blow-by.
Check to see if the rings are stuck in the ring grooves, or is the piston grooves worn enough so that the rings wobble in the groove? Note rust, especially for the bottom cylinder.
This motor had blown head gasket on lower cylinder. Since these motors are 2 cycle, and fire on the rise of the piston each time, it is crucial that the motor has GOOD compression on each stroke. You might therefore compare the compression on the first stroke, then against cranking it over another 3 or 4 times. By the nature of most compression testers, they allow a compounded poundage if cranked repeatedly. If this leakage has been there for a while and blown a hole, it will then need a new head gasket. Be sure you get the right head gasket, as the ones made for the post 92 models do not fit the 92 and older models. I have been communicating with one motor owner who is having lots of smoke coming from his motor when trolling where it uses LOTS of fuel, he says like an old V8 Ford. He has had it to mechanics but no one had narrowed down his problem. They are looking at leaks in his exhaust system for the smoke. His compression is 90 and 95the plugs are very oily but he has not had them foul to where the motor dies. My thoughts were that he has frozen rings in the pistons, or rings that have lost much of their tension so he is getting blow by. He later sent me the picture on the right above. Kind of like the Energizer Bunny. When he pulled his thumb off the hole, fire shot out that hole and toasted the end of his thumb! Not bad, but just enough to get his attention. My guess is that his rings are not sealing good enough to not allowing enough vacuum to pull the fuel into the crankcase, possibly a source of the fuel leak also also evidenced by fire coming out the crankcase fuel pump hole also bypassing the rings.